Reflections on Oil Dependent Economies and Gender: A Trip to Saudi Arabia

I published this OpEd in the Anchorage Press on December 7, 2016 after a trip I took to Saudi Arabia last month. Reprinting below:

Five days after the presidential election I was on a plane to Riyadh, the capital of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, one of the most conservative and religious Muslim countries in the world. The trip was a welcome reprieve from the stress and media overdose of the election. Driving in from the airport in Riyadh late at night felt a bit like being in Las Vegas—a glittering oasis of high-rises surrounded by brown desert—only without the alcohol or pools. Bentleys and Maseratis slid past ritzy shopping malls full of stores like Gucci, Saks Fifth Avenue and Givenchy. According to OPEC, the prolific Saudi oil and gas sector accounts for about 50 percent of gross domestic product, and about 85 percent of export earnings fueling this extravagant economy.

I’d been invited to attend a conference for 1,500 young leaders from 65 countries focused on economic diversification and entrepreneurship—part of the Saudi Arabia’s new Vision 2030, a plan focused on sweeping public sector reforms and ambitious goals for the oil-dependent economy, spearheaded largely by 31-year-old Deputy Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman. At its heart, the plan is trying to increase the contribution of the private sector from 40 percent to 65 percent of GDP and raise non-oil revenue from $43 billion to $266 billion. When Vision 2030 was unveiled in April, Prince bin Salman said: “We will not allow our country ever to be at the mercy of commodity price volatility or external markets.” As an Alaskan, that intrigued me. What could our state learn from the Kingdom about shifting away from economic dependence on petro-dollars? I also gained powerful insight into gender on the trip, glimpsing into a country where the rights of women are curtailed and their contributions—economic and otherwise—are discounted.

The need to create jobs in Saudi Arabia is crucial. Though wealthy, the country—and the Arab region more broadly—is struggling to confront a rising bubble of youth; 70 percent of Saudis are under 30 years old—and high unemployment. Economic diversification in the Arab States of the Persian Gulf is more than a buzzword, it’s an imperative. I heard the Arabic word for youth, shabaab, time and time again throughout the conference. The youth of the Arab region are increasingly tech-savvy, ambitious, and through conversations at the conference I heard a lot about young people yearning for more opportunities. Every attendee I spoke with at the conference had a smartphone. Snapchat and Instagram were a ubiquitous presence.  

Throughout my time in Saudi, the role of gender made a significant impression. At the conference I looked around at Saudi women on “our side” of the segregated seating area and didn’t see much individual empowerment or networking occurring. The entrances to the conference were separated for men and women, as was the seating. Dozens of cameras and even a drone filmed the conference proceedings, but only the men’s faces. The majority of conference participants were Saudi, and we were told the segregation was mainly to appease the conservatives among them. Western women were required to wear an abaya (long sleeved, black gown), and it was strongly recommended we wear a hijab (head scarf) when in public. I had never covered myself like this before, and at first found it strange and suffocating. But after the newness wore off, I started to enjoy it. I’ve lived abroad before, and as a blonde American woman I’m familiar with the awkward feeling of being stared out. Here I felt anonymous, left alone, peeping out at the world unobserved. Plus, I didn’t have to put much thought into my outfit each day.

Me in Riyadh

Surprises and incongruities abounded. During a break in the conference, I wandered into one of Riyadh’s many luxury malls and spotted a Victoria’s Secret. Curious, I peeked in. The women who worked there wore the niqab—a full-face veil with an opening for the eyes. Like most Saudi women, they were drenched in perfume. The visual effect was stunning: scantily clad mannequins wearing bright red bras and pink thongs beside flowing black fabric holding women inside.  

On day two of the conference, a few American women and I ventured to the men’s side to sit (we had been assured by conference organizers that this was permissible). We felt hundreds of male eyes moving to avoid seeing us. Arab men wouldn’t sit within a couple rows of us. There was minimal interaction or networking between Arab men and women at the conference, and when it did occur, it was virtual with participants using the conference’s app to message one another.  

At one of the coffee breaks, I forced some interaction with a Saudi man. He’d lived in the U.S. for 14 years and had moved back to Saudi Arabia six months earlier to work on Vision 2030. At one point, as he tried to convince me of Saudi’s liberalness and progress. “Look, a Saudi woman one meter from me!” he exclaimed, pointing to a woman in full burqa (a full body covering with mesh over the eyes) close to him speaking to two other women. “Look how far Saudi has come!” he was saying. For me, the point fell short: Two-thirds of Arab women are looking for a job and they are still unable to drive vehicles or travel without permission from a male guardian.  

I’ve been to many global conferences like this one, and the content wasn’t anything monumental or transformational. It was flashy, with high-profile speakers like Bill Gates and the CEO of British Petroleum. But it was light on clear action items. However, the fact that the Saudi royal family was prioritizing the challenge of economic diversification was in itself breaking with tradition and admirable.  

While the outspoken, American feminist in me felt muffled by the formless, anonymizing cloak and my inability to speak openly to men—the abaya and hijab made me feel protected, and I felt respected and watched out for by the Saudi men around me. Of course, you could chalk this up to the fact that I was an American woman who had the luxury of different treatment, but I got a glimpse of how Saudi women had their sacred, safe spaces, and strong bonds. I met outspoken ladies at the conference who seemed unphased by their lack of equal status with men. At one point when the conference broke out into small groups to brainstorm entrepreneurial activities, a group of women named their team “Women are Better than Men.” The declaration was as bold as it was excited, in an environment where small inroads are being made. Women recently gained the right to vote and run for local office in Saudi Arabia, and the Saudi royal family is said, anecdotally, to have more liberal views on gender. When women eventually rise up to claim more space beside Saudi men, I think the latter will be surprised by the strength and talent they possess.  

I left Riyadh on a plane bound for Paris still wearing my abaya and hijab, shedding them mid-flight. As I deplaned in the Charles De Gaulle airport, I couldn’t stop staring at all the exposed female skin around me. It was the realization how normalized it is in the West to unabashedly look at the female form, which is so often on display. Tank tops and even exposed necks surprised me. I had covered myself in black for just three days, and it left me with a respect and acknowledgement of the agency that can come with covering; the option to chose how much of you can be publicly known.  

In spite of all the millions being spent on Vision 2030—the grand conferences, consultant fees, studies, and flashy press conferences—the Saudi government has a long way to go. There remain significant barriers to entry for entrepreneurs, problems in accessing capital and challenges with bringing women into the workforce. I’m not convinced a modern economy is possible where dogma and tradition still relegate half the population to the far-side of the conference barrier. However, what drew me to travel 10,000 miles to Riyadh was the idea of a comprehensive plan. I greatly admire the fact that they’ve developed a broad-ranging roadmap with goals and a vision for the future. This is unprecedented in the region, and something that in Alaska our elected officials have not yet come around to: Developing a plan that sees beyond the next election cycle to diversify Alaska’s oil-based economy and inspire and empower young Alaskans.

Anchorage Neighborhoods' Identity Crises

I co-wrote this blog with my friend Eric Van Oss, whose blog, The Arctic Urbanophile, is a great read on urban planning and development in Alaska. 

Q: What is a city?

A: A collection of identifiable, individual neighborhoods that make up pieces of a greater community.

When people talk about cities, they often refer specifically to the neighborhood in which they reside, like Seattle’s Capitol Hill or Washington DC’s Georgetown. These neighborhoods have iconic attractions, well-defined borders, and a shared common identity.

While Anchorage does have a few easily-identifiable neighborhoods with their own personalities and cultures, these are (unfortunately) exceptions to the rule. What dominates instead is a sense of confusion in our neighborhoods’ identities, which discourages community engagement, ownership, and pride. In contrast, a sense of belonging to the community and the physical location in which one lives encourages residents to put down roots and invest in their shared space. Anchorage’s Westchester Lagoon or Government Hill neighborhoods are such examples, each having engaged communities with a long-term perspective on their neighborhood’s development.

Anchorage is relatively new city that developed due to a mix of automobile dependency, lax zoning, and rapid growth. This mix has contributed to the blandness that many commercial and residential developments in town are known for. To illustrate this lack of identity, when asking for directions in Anchorage, people often refer to cross streets or proximity to the highway, as opposed to naming their specific neighborhood. Too often referencing a neighborhood triggers nothing more than the image of a site condo or drab duplex with T-1 siding opposed to an actual destination with character. Too many neighborhoods in Anchorage are simply places to dwell; and not a place to “Live. Work. Play.”

There are several solutions that will move us toward more defined and cohesive neighborhoods, and a more connected community in general:

1. Agreement on Geographic Boundaries and Names for Neighborhoods. Anchorage is riddled with neighborhoods that have multiple monikers. There is a mismatch between the names and borders of community council districts, historic districts and colloquial names, and other prominent landmark names that come from parks, trails, and lakes. For example, Valley of the Moon is both the name of a park and a colloquial neighborhood, but is split between two community council districts (South Addition and North Star). North Star has no symbolic or literal meaning to residents apart from being a community council district. This dichotomy creates an undefined sense of place and makes coherent planning for the Valley of the Moon area difficult. A city-wide effort between community councils, businesses, residents, community groups, and the Municipality to address these naming and border discrepancies would help create more definitive neighborhoods.

Perhaps one of the best examples of how this can work well would be Mountain View. The geographical boundaries, community identity, and unique features are very clearly encompassed within a generally accepted area. In stark contrast is a neighborhood in East Dowling. At one time the intersection at Jewel Lake and Raspberry Roads, commonly referred to as “Four Corners,” was poised to be developed as a Town Center. The area includes a promising mix of commercial and public space with nearby residential development, but it suffers from a generally nondescript aesthetic and is lacking in public infrastructure such as appropriate sidewalks, crosswalks, and lighting. Despite its potential, this areas sits in a planning no man’s land, lumped in the geographically expansive Sand Lake Community Council. More targeted branding and investment could facilitate the growth of Four Corners as a distinct sub-community with unique amenities. As the gateway to Kincaid Park, the area could be transformed into a destination in its own right opposed to an area to simply drive through. Resuscitating the Town Center concept from the original Anchorage 2020 Comprehensive Plan would do wonders for refocusing community activity in smaller subareas of Anchorage and encourage neighborhood-oriented commercial hubs.

On the flipside, these borders and identities cannot be arbitrarily assigned, such as the “SoNo”(South of Nordstrom) debacle, where in 2005 local businesses and the Municipality tried to unsuccessfully (in our opinions) brand a district of downtown. Downtown is one of the few well-defined and accepted neighborhoods in Anchorage; the failure of SoNo and the district concept in general was due to lack of meaning or buy-in from residents.

2. Prioritization of Multi-Use Zoning. One of the best ways to create unique neighborhoods is to incentivize connection and community through self-contained, walkable places. Zoning in Anchorage often creates strict lines between residential, commercial, and recreational areas that often do not overlap. It is difficult to create a community identity in an area that is solely comprised of duplexes or is just an expanse of mini-malls. Mixed use development through zoning should be prioritized. The Wisconsin Street area, split between Turnagain and Spenard neighborhoods, is a largely unremarkable residential development. The Rustic Goat restaurant, which opened in 2013, challenged these assumptions by creating a small commercial area that encouraged social interaction within the neighborhood, provided a landmark, and encouraged economic development. Although the neighborhood still lacks key infrastructure like sidewalks, adequate lighting, and bike lanes, this mixed use zoning (albeit limited), has made it a more attractive place to live and put down long-term roots. The removal of a playground to install increased parking for Rustic Goat may have upset some residents, but with the proximity of the Coastal Trail, Barbara Street Park, Muriel Park, and Fish Creek Park, the loss of this streetside playground is more palatable.

3. Lack of Neighborhood Identity Does Not Facilitate “Live. Work. Play.” Related to multi-use zoning is the issue of comprehensive placemaking. Anchorage’s neighborhoods today essentially forces residents to own a vehicle. Like many U.S. cities, we have been built around (non-public) motorized transport and there seems to be little appetite to change the paradigm. For example, “Ms. Aurora Borealis” lives in the Bayshore/Klatt neighborhood. She works in at the University, shops downtown, goes to the gym in Spenard, eats at restaurants in midtown, and skis at Bicentennial Park. She has accepted the fact that her Bayshore/Klatt individual neighborhood cannot provide her with the amenities she desires to fully “Live. Work. Play.” in a walkable distance from her home.

This reality has hampered neighborhood development throughout our city. Having both lived in cities where our favorite bar, restaurant, coffee shop, gym, pharmacy and grocery store were within a 15-minute walk (or a shorter bus ride) from our homes, we know there is an alternative. Unlike the sprawling metropolis of Houston, Texas, Anchorage could realistically be a bikeable and walkable city with effective public transport and amenities located closer to homes. As residents, we have the power to change this by demanding comprehensive planning from our Community Councils, Assembly Members and Mayor that incorporates multi-use zoning and neighborhood planning. Neighborhood residents should not simply be complacent and accept a sub-par built environment. Instead, they need to change the neighborhood-wide culture to one that promotes placemaking.

Perhaps one of the most identifiable features in our city is our robust park and trail system. Increasing awareness and access to link up with these mini-highways, as the Anchorage Park Foundation is trying to do through their Signage and Wayfinding Plan, would go a long way toward facilitating living, working, and playing near one’s home. However, the Park Foundation’s naming efforts, including unique signage for individual neighborhoods, only adds another layer onto an already confusing amalgam of neighborhood names. This further demonstrates our first point: the need for communities, nonprofits, businesses, and the municipality to partner together to rebrand and name our neighborhoods.

As young residents of this city who both live in relatively undefined neighborhoods, we become frustrated as we are forced to make up names for the places we live when explaining their locations to others. Penny lives in “Spenardigan,” the unnamed space in between Spenard and Turnagain, while Eric lives near Sullivan Arena, an area he affectionately is trying to rebrand as “The Arena District.” We understand that as a young city, Anchorage’s lack of history posits a challenge to the creation of these ingrained identities. But on the other hand, this also presents an opportunity for us to co-create our neighborhoods’ identities, increasing citizen engagement, ownership, and city pride.

Storytelling

I am not a natural storyteller. I listen in awe as people who I admire for their storytelling skills regale large groups with accounts of even the most mundane of activities. These people, like my friend Alana, or my Uncle Sam, can make a story arc and have you on the edge of your seat as they describe their most recent meal, or even their drive over to see you! As a more analytical and "to the point" personality, I struggle to draw out the suspense, fully describe moments and pull the listener into the story. So, naturally, I decided to participate in a monthly storytelling show in Anchorage, Alaska in front of an audience of 750 people.  Yikes.

The monthly show is called Arctic Entries. Why that name? Homes don't usually have porches in Alaska, but we do have something that's called an Arctic entry (an area between the front door and the door to the main house where you take off your layers, strip off your snowy boots, and also sit to gear up before going outside). Since stories are often told on porches in the lower 48 states, it makes sense that stories should be told in our Arctic entries in Alaska.

The show consists of 7 storytellers, who are just normal people from the community, each telling a 7 minute story, with no notes. The story must be true and about something that has happened to them. The show is wildly popular; the 750 seats in the theater sell out within 10 minutes of going on sale.

I love attending Arctic Entries as a spectator, and for the past year, I've thought about telling a story of my own on that stage. A lot of practice and preparation go into the preparation of a story, and Arctic Entries volunteers help you immensely through this process.  When I approached them this summer, they turned into my therapists/coaches/motivators/friends as they helped me refine and perfect my chosen story. The process of creating a story arc; getting the audience to relate to me and "like" me in the first 15 seconds of the story; presenting the conflict; and showing how I resolved the conflict took me weeks.

In the days before the show I was so nervous. The story wasn't in the shape I wanted it to be. Despite my outgoing personality and love of people, I really dislike being directly in the spotlight, so I was nervous about all the attention and potential for failure. The only thing that kept me going was the fact that my story was about one of my best friends, Alana, and the birth of her first daughter in 2012. I saw my story as a tribute to her and our friendship.

I won't give away too much here, since you can listen to my story online here!  Some photos of that night are below...

The 7 storytellers of the night, and our hosts

If you live in Anchorage and are interested in telling your own story on stage, visit www.arcticentries.com 

South Sudan Trip Cut Short - Back in the U.S.

Hello to everyone (or jambo as they say in Kenya, where I just returned from),

I arrived back in the U.S. last night.  Flights out of Nairobi, Kenya were difficult to get.  I was lucky because the airline didn’t charge me for changing my flight from January to December.  Delta waived the fee for travelers affected by the conflict in South Sudan.

By now, I’m sure that most of you have noticed South Sudan’s situation in the news.  I saw that NBC Nightly News and other major news agencies have been covering it.  President Obama has made statements, as has the U.S. representative to the United Nations, Samantha Power.  A few stories on the continuing conflict are here:

• Here is a TV story that my college friend Alexis Fernandez did about the South Sudan situation and ASMP's work there.  I set up the interview and ASMP staff Skyped in from Nairobi: http://www.ktva.com/unrest-in-south-sudan-felt-in-the-last-frontier/
  

• http://www.npr.org/2013/12/25/257139181/clashes-continue-in-south-sudan-despite-calls-for-ceasfire

• http://abcnews.go.com/News/south-sudan-crisis-explained-idiot/story?id=21314172

• http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/27/world/africa/south-sudan-crisis.html?_r=0

The Sudan Tribune has some good updates, also Twitter (#southsudan #southsudancrisis #juba are some good hash tags to search).

The Alaska Sudan Medical Project (ASMP) has pulled all volunteers out of South Sudan.  We chartered private small planes from Kenya directly to the village of Old Fangak, in Jonglei State, where ASMP works, and back to Nairobi, Kenya.  Other volunteers and I were in a holding pattern in Nairobi for several days waiting to see if we could go in after all, or if the violence would get worse.  UN Peacekeepers from India were killed last week during an attack on a UN compound, and an American plane was shot at while trying to land in Bor, South Sudan and 4 U.S. military members were wounded in the incident.  It’s been a stressful past couple weeks, and I feel great sorrow for the people of South Sudan.  Their 2.5-year-old country has so much promise (The Economist magazine named it as one of their finalists for “Country of the Year 2013” due to its impressive economic growth). 

While there is no way of knowing how this will progress and when nonprofit organizations, Embassy staff, and aid groups will return to the country, I wanted to emphasize to those who donated to ASMP through my fundraising project, it was not in vain!  ASMP has been at work this year since October in the village of Old Fangak, and this money was able to go toward multiple projects that were completed before ASMP evacuated.  During the 2013 building season (October-December), the following was accomplished, thanks to donors' generous support:

• Five water wells were drilled.  In the previous two years, one and two wells were drilled respectively.  This large increase in productivity was due to new drilling equipment, personnel, and the generous support of donors.  Each well costs around $5,000 to complete, including the well casing, pump, pipe, personnel, etc.

• The foundation for the new tuberculosis clinic was substantially progressed.  The foundation is being built out of concrete and steel.

• Some repairs were made to the main health center.

• ASMP’s agriculture project made great leaps forward this year.  The farmers participating in ASMP’s micro loan and farmer training program had a good harvest, ensuring food security this season (main crops are sorghum and maize).  Notably, several women are participating in the program.

• Numbers of those suffering from Kala-azar are lower this year in the village.  This parasitic disease that is spread by mosquitoes normally affects the very young and the very old, and is a debilitating, deadly sickness.  The reasons for the low numbers of infections are unknown at this time.  It could just be part of a multiple year cycle, or due to increased education and work by ASMP in this issue.

• Two medical incinerators were purchased.

• Volleyball equipment, cotton balls, syringes, tuberculosis medicine, and various other medical supplies were purchased.

• Many of Dr. Jill Seaman’s local South Sudanese staff (around 60 individuals) were sent away to training and school to increase their knowledge in public health and medicine.

• Three South Sudanese men were trained in well-drilling and how to repair the wells.

I was able to meet and spend substantial time with this year’s ASMP volunteers, most of whom had already been in South Sudan for 6-8 weeks when I arrived.  It was wonderful to hear about Old Fangak and ASMP's work from these people.  There is substantial need there, but also lots of progress.  Dr. Jill Seaman (who has worked in South Sudan and this village for over 20 years) has been evacuated (pretty unwillingly) to Nairobi also, but is standing by to return as soon as the violence calms.  If ASMP continues to operate in South Sudan, I will definitely be returning.  My experience in Africa was amazing and cemented in me the fact that I want to volunteer there and be a part of ASMP.  

The volunteers that work in this region are gifted, selfless, and generous... I met David who works as a peony farmer in the summer outside of Anchorage, and for 3 months a year in South Sudan with ASMP.  Elyse is an EMT in Colorado currently and spends 3 months per year in the village with ASMP taking care of everything from cancer to tuberculosis to snake bites.  Denny is a construction worker most of the year in Anchorage and spends 1-2 months annually in South Sudan.  Rob works for a contractor for oil companies in Alaska most of the year, and this is his fourth year volunteering with ASMP.  They all had to return to the U.S. earlier than expected, like me. 

I will keep you all updated on developments for ASMP and South Sudan.  I still have hope that this crisis can come under control, or at least stabilize, and ASMP can get back to work.

Here is a photo of Patrick, a Kenyan who works for ASMP as a well driller.  One of the nicest people I've met, with a real heart for helping others.  He's sporting one of our team shirts.

I have my South Sudan visa! Countdown to trip: one month

My trip to South Sudan with the Alaska Sudan Medical Project (ASMP) is fast approaching!  I will be there December 15 - January 11 doing public health work in the village of Old Fangak, South Sudan.  This week I took another step closer to the trip; I applied for and received my visa to travel to South Sudan!

ASMP Program Director Jason Hahn is already in Nairobi and has been coordinating the arrival of building materials for the health clinic and other supplies, many of which were donated by Alaskans (bicycles, medical supplies, medicine, watering cans for the agriculture project, canoes...) 

Boeing offered to transport ASMP humanitarian supplies to Africa in an empty, new 777 it is delivering to Kenya Airways in Nairobi, Kenya. Here is a photo of Jason Hahn receiving the humanitarian cargo with South Sudan Deputy Head of Mission, Mariano Deng Ngor. 

In the village of Old Fangak, where ASMP works, they've also begun to drill a water well, using a drill purchased with ASMP funds. 

Having access to clean water is a struggle in the region, and many villagers use river water for cooking which can lead to disease.  While I'm in Old Fangak, I may work on a water use survey that was started by an Alaskan volunteer last year.  The survey will help determine why people choose river water over well water or why not, how they deal with waterborne disease, and asses the best locations to drill a well for the community.

That's all for now.  More updates soon.

Security in South Sudan

On the news recently, there have been stories of violence, border disputes, and killings in South Sudan.  Many people (including my parents) have asked me if I'll be safe when I go to South Sudan in December to volunteer with the Alaska Sudan Medical Project (ASMP).  The Program Director for ASMP provided some good background on the security situation in the small village I'll be staying in for 3.5 weeks.  I feel that I will be safe when I travel there, and I really trust the ASMP team.  See what he wrote about security below:

"The area that we work in has been safe for several years. In the past this is area has not been a particular security risk. Most of the risks related to any miiitary or militia activity is far to the north near the border, and far to the south near Pibor county.

'The government of South Sudan has been aware of Dr. Jill and ASMP's prescence in Old Fangak for many years. There is a small contingency of government troops in Old Fangak whose job it is to provide peace and security in the area. 

"With that said, this is South Sudan, and as many places in the world, security can not entirely be guaranteed. To mitigate risks, ASMP is in constant communication with those in the village including Dr. Jill to stay apprised of any developing security risks. We have a rapid evacuation plan in case anything should arise, which includes rapid, immediate deployment by planes operated by Mission Aviation Fellowship, who can reach Old Fangak in a relatively short period of time. This safety plan also covers medical emergencies. Also, if we anticipate security risks, we will not send in volunteers. About three years ago we did this for one group, however it was only out of extreme caution."

I hope this puts you at ease; it certainly helps me feel better about the trip.  From my experience in Peace Corps, I know that often violence can be concentrated in urban areas and in the small, rural villages, there are no issues.
To date, I've raised $4,400!  I'm going to increase my fundraising goal from $4,500 to $5,000; just for the challenge!  Please pass on my Fundraising Web Page to anyone you think might be interested in my project!

$1,000 left to fundraise! My South Sudan trip inches closer...

It's time for another update; I'm about two months away from my trip!  To date, I've raised $3,575 (WOW!) out of my goal of $4,500.  My fundraising website is here: http://www.firstgiving.com/fundraiser/pennygage/southsudan My ticket to South Sudan via Nairobi, Kenya has been purchased by the Alaska Sudan Medical Project (ASMP)!  I will be there December 15, 2013 - January 10, 2014.  I'm taking off a few days early from school (I've arranged with professors to take a couple final exams early), and will miss the first two days of the spring semester, but I'm making it happen!  I'm preparing my South Sudan visa materials (this process should be pretty easy since I know the South Sudanese woman who processes visas at their embassy here in DC), and starting to think about packing.  Lightweight tent, sleeping pad, sleeping bag, antibiotics...  I feel like I'm returning to the Peace Corps!  I'm going in for some vaccines and to pick up preventative malaria medicine next week at the Georgetown student health center.  It's really happening!  Although, I still have a little bit to go to reach my fundraising goal.

I am SO grateful to those of you who have donated to my project thus far.  As I prepare to travel and after my trip, those of you who have donated will hear much more from me as I write blogs and share my experience.  I encourage you to pass on my fundraising page to others! I've been amazed that people who I don't even know have seen my page and donated; I'm feeling very empowered by your trust and energy, and excited for the trip.  For reference, here is a map of Africa highlighting South Sudan's location:

And here is a more detailed map of South Sudan, with a red arrow at the top pointing to the Old Fangak region where ASMP works and where I will be visiting:

I couldn't help but think about those less fortunate this week when the the annual Permanent Fund Dividend (PFD) checks were disbursed to eligible Alaskans.  Many of you who read my blog are friends and family from back home in Alaska who receive this yearly check ($900 this year), which is a distribution of the oil wealth our state enjoys.  This check was undoubtedly a needed boost for many families dealing with the high cost of living in Alaska and rising heating and travel costs.  As Alaskans debate whether or not to raise or lower oil taxes, and how to best develop our resources and plan for the future, I am reminded of the similar struggle happening in South Sudan.

South Sudan is also endowed with oil reserves, however their journey to develop those resources has been fraught with war and fighting with the north.  Most of the oil is now produced in South Sudan, but the country is landlocked and remains dependent on Sudan because it must use Sudan's export pipelines and processing facilities. In early 2012, South Sudan voluntarily shut in all of its oil production because of a dispute with Sudan over oil transit fees.

Last month, two oil fields in South Sudan came back 'on line', 21 months after they were shut down.  South Sudan’s Petroleum Minister said the reopening of the fields will not only lead to an increase in oil production but also signaled a warming of relations with Sudan.  According to the Oil & Gas Journal, Sudan and South Sudan have 5 billion barrels of proved crude oil reserves as of January 1, 2013. According to BP's 2013 Statistical Review, approximately 3.5 billion barrels are in South Sudan and 1.5 billion barrels are in Sudan.

I hope that the development of these resources can be a force for development in South Sudan, rather than a catalyst for division and fighting over borders and wealth-sharing between the north and the south.  As I've mentioned in previous blogs, South Sudan is just over two years old - having declared independence from the north in July 2011.  Last month in New York City at the annual United Nations General Assembly meeting, South Sudan's Vice President James Wani Igga spoke to delegations on his country's relations with Sudan. Igga said that it has been “a mixture of cooperation and squabbles” but acknowledged that there is “no alternative to lasting peace other than harmony and cooperation.”

That's all for now.  Please pass on my fundraising page to those you think might be interested in this project; I have about $1,000 left to raise for ASMP (of course, I can go over this goal, also) :)

Thank you for reading this blog and for supporting this project!

Peace Corps and Sexual Assault

I received an email update this week from Peace Corps on their efforts to reduce sexual assault and the risk faced by Peace Corps volunteers abroad.  This is a highly relevant issue in Peace Corps around the world; especially in Central America where I served.  During my Peace Corps service, there were several incidents of sexual assault involving fellow female volunteers.  It was a traumatic experience that I am still processing.  I'm glad Peace Corps is taking steps to reduce sexual assault, but there is still much more that could be done.  The message from Peace Corps below:

Dear Peace Corps Family,

On September 1, the Peace Corps formally launched the final stages of our Sexual Assault Risk Reduction and Response program, which has been developed over the past few years in consultation with post staff and Volunteers worldwide, as well as nationally recognized experts, including recommendations from the Department of Justice; the Rape, Abuse and Incest National Network (RAINN); and the Peace Corps’ newly developed Sexual Assault Advisory Council.

With their help, we have developed a two-pronged approach. The first part is to reduce risks through training for Volunteers, including bystander intervention, risk assessment, and other skill-building sessions during pre- and in-service training; the second part is to ensure that Peace Corps staff responds effectively and compassionately when incidents do occur, through staff training, the new Office of Victim Advocacy, and the appointment of trained sexual assault response liaisons at each post.

This new strategy incorporates more than 30 policy changes, extensive training for Volunteers and staff, and new clearly defined procedures for reducing the risk of sexual assault and responding to Volunteers who are victims of sexual assault. The program exceeds the requirements of the Kate Puzey Peace Corps Volunteer Protection Act, signed by President Obama in November 2011, reflecting our ironclad commitment to the physical and emotional well-being of every single Volunteer.

We are working hard to make sure each and every Volunteer is familiar with these program changes. As with any new policy, there will be some adjustments, but I strongly believe the steps we have taken will result in better outcomes for our Volunteers. We will continue to evaluate the impact of this program as it is fully implemented and make adjustments as necessary.  For more information on Peace Corps’ Sexual Assault Risk Reduction and Response program, visit this link.

With warmest regards,
Carrie Hessler-Radelet
Acting Peace Corps Director
RPCV/Western Samoa, 1981–83

South Sudan in December!

Yes, that's right!  I’m trying to spend Christmas 2013 in South Sudan, Africa volunteering with an Alaskan nonprofit organization that works in public health.  

As you may know from having read this blog, I served as a community health volunteer in the US Peace Corps in Nicaragua from 2009-2011.  I worked in a small village to promote maternal and child health and prevent HIV/AIDS and teen pregnancy.  These two years in Nicaragua were life-altering.  I will never again take for granted the clean water, nutritious and accessible food, and economic opportunity we enjoy in the developed world.  After returning to Alaska after the Peace Corps, I began to search for local volunteer opportunities. A friend told me of the famed Dr. Jill Seaman (a 2009 MacArthur fellow) and her involvement with the nonprofit, the Alaska Sudan Medical Project (ASMP). Since 1989, Dr. Seaman has split her time between Bethel, Alaska working for the Indian Health Service, and in the outer reaches of South Sudan in Africa.

In July 2011, after more than 50 years of bloodshed, Africa’s largest country split in two and the Republic of South Sudan became the world’s newest country. South Sudan just had its second ‘birthday’ last week.  I thought Nicaragua had dire health conditions, but after speaking with Dr. Jack Hickel, a friend and colleague of Dr. Jill Seaman, I realized that South Sudan’s plight is much, much worse.  In 2007, at Dr. Seaman’s invite, Hickel visited the remote village of Old Fangak, South Sudan.  Soon after, Hickel – who has a degree in tropical medicine – founded ASMP.  South Sudan has a struggling if even existent health care system and very limited access to infrastructure like running water or electricity.  I began volunteering in 2011 with ASMP locally in Anchorage, Alaska.  I’ve helped with fundraising, and continued to do so when I moved home to Sitka, and now in Washington, DC where I currently attend graduate school.

The remote reaches of South Sudan carry some of the worst health statistics in the world. The infant mortality rate is 70 deaths per 1,000 births (the US has a rate of 6 per 1,000).  Thirty-six percent of children are malnourished and just 10 percent of children have had full childhood immunizations. Due mainly to substandard health care, average life expectancy is just 42 years.

With help from ASMP, the village of Old Fangak is now is finishing construction of a health center and has begun building a second clinic. ASMP also is assisting in the construction of a school and to implement an immunization program. Past successful projects include construction of wells, latrines and the development of several vegetable garden small-businesses. One of the most important things to me about ASMP is that it strives for sustainable development where it works, providing jobs and opportunities for locals. With assistance from ASMP, villagers have been trained as community health workers and to work as welders.  ASMP also hopes to teach locals to use the drilling equipment and build new water wells, creating a lasting impact in the region. 

The tasks at hand for the new country are great and I am heartened to see an organization like ASMP that is leading the way in health care, development and service. To learn more, check out ASMP’s Facebook page or their website.  An amazing 37-minute video spotlighting the organization’s work entitled “The Village” is available here.   

I'm planning to go to South Sudan with ASMP’s annual winter trek of volunteers that go to build, train, and volunteer their time in Old Fangak.  I’ve been thinking about traveling there with ASMP since 2011, and this is the year I can finally make it work.  I’ll go for three weeks during my winter vacation from school (December 2013-January 2014).  While in the village of Old Fangak, I will assist in tuberculosis clinic construction, well drilling, health education, youth outreach – (similar to things I did in Peace Corps) – and also get firsthand experience that can help me continue to be an advocate for ASMP back in the US.  While in Washington, DC I’ve been engaging with the new Embassy of South Sudan.  At my invite, my school – Georgetown University – hosted the South Sudanese Ambassador for a speaking engagement this spring.  I’d like to continue fundraising and advocating for ASMP’s work and awareness of South Sudan and its future challenges and opportunities.

I’m humbly asking for donations to ASMP and my trip over to South Sudan this winter. I need to raise $4,500 to make the trip to South Sudan.  Some of the funds will go toward ASMP and supplies for clinic construction and trainings, and some will go toward my plane ticket from DC to Nairobi, Kenya, and then travel to South Sudan. I am grateful for a donation of any amount.  Right now, I'm about 60% of the way toward my fundraising goal!

I am using a website called FirstGiving to collect donations.  You can pay online at my Fundraising Page, and while there, read more about ASMP and keep track of how much I’ve been able to raise.  

You may have seen some things about South Sudan recently in the news, and have questions about the safety of the country.  There have been some changes in the government; the President, Mr. Salva Kiir removed many people from power in his cabinet and government, including the Vice President.  Maybe people were worried this would lead to violence and unrest, exacerbated by tribal alliances and conflict over oil between Sudan and South Sudan.  The New York Times had an article recently on the issue.

However, like many conflicts located far from the western world, not all of the nuances are being written about or portrayed correctly.  Last week, I met with a South Sudanese friend of mine who works at the Embassy of South Sudan here in Washington, DC.  She assured me that on the ground, things are safe in most areas of the country, including in the region/village where I will be traveling this December.  She says the Embassy is still issuing dozens of visas per day to travelers, and the President is quickly reappointing people to the vacated positions.  He is downsizing much of government to prevent corruption, and appears to be committed to democracy.  There are still unanswered questions moving forward, and the situation is evolving, but I feel confident after speaking with her that on the ground, things are safe.  I also spoke with ASMP staff last week and they were still moving ahead with plans for volunteer trips and construction this winter.

Please feel free to pass my fundraising page on to anyone else you think might be interested in contributing or just learning more about the organization.  I'm optimistic that we can make this happen, and I'm so grateful to those of you who have already contributed. 

Spring Break Travels: Russia and Czech Republic

For spring break, I jumped on a great flight deal from DC to Moscow and decided to visit my dear friend Amy who works for the State Department in Moscow.  I also went to Prague, Czech Republic for a few days during the week.  This was the furthest east I had been in Europe and it was an eye-opening trip.  It was my first time leaving the United States in almost two years (since I returned from the Peace Corps in April 2011!)  It felt liberating to travel again, especially to an area that was so unknown to me.

Russia was cold (15-20F some days and windy) and appropriately very "Soviet" feeling; there were no tourists besides me.  Without my friend, it would have been very difficult to get around on my own.  I couldn't read the Russian alphabet, so it was hard to even sound-out words that I saw written.  We did a whirlwind tour of Moscow and saw all the main sights in just a few days: the Kremlin and its Armory full of Russian treasures and jewels, St. Basil's Cathedral and Red Square, Cafe Pushkin, a concert, hockey game, the Bolshoi Theater (we went to the ballet), and the Soviet version of "Epcot" - an exposition center that was built in the 1940s.  The exposition center is known as the Exhibition of National Economic Achievements and is an impressive monument to Soviet past.  There are various pavilions built in the Exhibition to showcase each of the Soviet republics (Belarus, Armenia, etc.) 

US Diplomats vs Russian Diplomats hockey game we attended.  Guess who won?? :)

At the Soviet Exhibition Center - each golden statue at the fountain represents a Soviet republic

Ballet at the Bolshoi Theater

This Russian babushka was sitting outside the metro playing music for coins.  It was International Women's Day (March 8) and someone must have given her the tulips in her bag to recognize it.  All the women had flowers

Walking around Moscow

Inside Russian Orthodox Cathedral at the Kremlin

Me in Red Square

St. Basil's Cathedral 

Prague was quite different from Moscow - I took a three hour flight to Czech Republic to see a friend from undergrad.  It was much warmer to begin with, most people spoke English, and there were many tourists.  It felt much more like Western Europe.  People call Prague "the poor man's Moscow" since it is a popular place for Muscovites to move due to its much lower cost of living.  Many multinational corporations are also based there since they can pay employees less and have less operating costs, relatively close to Western Europe.  I met several Prague residents who were originally from Ukraine, Germany, Poland, Spain, Canada and the US who were working or studying there.  It was a popular destination because of its low cost of living combined with a wealth of cultural activities and its Western European "feel."  Prague truly was a "fairy tale town," around every corner and on every hillside there was a different palace, synagogue, cathedral or church.  It was a very walkable city and I spent most of my two days there walking and sightseeing.

Prague

Prague's Vltava River

Looking west in Prague

Traditional Czech pastry.  The dough is rolled over hot coals to cook, then covered in sugar

Blowing bubbles in the Prague old town square

It was a wonderful week-long break, and now I'm back to the grind in DC.  This semester ends in two months; the end is in sight!  I'm not sure what my summer plans will be yet.  I've applied for a few internships (some abroad, some here in DC).  I hope to find out soon!

Obama's Second Inauguration

I got a golden ticket!  The US Presidential Inauguration Committee allocates tickets to each Congressional office to award to constituents based on a lottery system.  I applied for tickets through each of my Alaska representatives' offices, and was awarded two tickets to Obama's second Inauguration, held on January 21, 2013.  My friend Adrien (also from Alaska) and I attended, braving the cold and the crowds to witness history!

For President Obama's first Inauguration in 2009, I was in Miami, Florida about to depart for my Peace Corps service in Nicaragua.  Wow, how time has gone by!  I remember the excitement and the energy my fellow volunteers and I felt as we boarded the plane to leave the country, with Obama just being sworn in.  We were on a "service high," and ready to work for our country.  Four years later, the excitement has lessened, and my idealism has been tempered by the very real hardship I experienced in Peace Corps.  However, my admiration for President Obama continues and I was very excited to be able to attend the Inauguration.

Here in DC, I live very close to the National Mall and the US Capitol, so thankfully Adrien and I got to skip the horrendous commute.  We got in line at about 8 AM, and quickly went through security (there were airport TSA screeners).  The photo below shows the lines to enter the white tents where the metal detectors were located.  The attendees to this Inauguration estimated to be about half of those in 2009, drawing 1 million people to DC.

The ceremonies started around 11 AM.  Adrien and I were in the "yellow standing area" behind the Capitol reflecting pool.  People brought blankets, picnic food, and plenty of warm clothing because it was very cold!  (Of course, it was also very sunny with blue skies, so on TV, it looked like an amazing day.  I, on the other hand, couldn't feel my hands or feet most of the morning). Obama scarves, hats, gloves, pins, and t-shirts were everywhere.  Some attendees had also been to his Inauguration in 2009; others had traveled from far away to attend for the first time.  During the down time between when we entered the secure area to when the festivities began, we chatted with other people, jumped around to keep warm, and people-watched.  This kid in the photo below even decided to take a nap on the grass while we waited...  I liked his initiative.

The view of the crowds looking behind us toward the Washington Monument

The ceremony did not disappoint.  Although we had to rely on the jumbo TV screens to see exactly what was happening, it was exhilarating to be in the presence of so many amazing leaders and even celebrities.  Obama's speech was inspiring; I especially enjoyed his focus on climate change.

The view of the Capitol from where we stood

After the ceremony ended in the early afternoon, Adrien and I stumbled home through the crowds to take hot baths and nap.  The city was abuzz all evening; I live near the Washington Convention Center where the official Inaugural Ball was held, and all night long I could hear helicopters, sirens, and yelling out in the streets.  ATVs had replaced many vehicles in the streets around my house since traffic was in gridlock, blocking any other way of transporting VIPs and others who needed to get places quickly.  Happy Hours, special Inauguration brunches, and parties were held all over DC throughout the day.  While I spend the rest of Inauguration Day 2013 sleeping, I was content in the fact that I had actually been there that morning and witnessed this historic event.

Life Lessons from Pitbull

So, hopefully you're at least somewhat familiar with the Cuban-American rapper known as "Pitbull." He also goes by the aliases Mr. 305, Mr. Worldwide, and his given name, Armando Cristian Perez.  He is 31 years old and grew up in Miami, Florida, born to Cuban parents.  Pitbull's style of music is eclectic, and has been changing as he gains popularity and appeals to wider audiences: Latin rap, reggaeton, hip hop, electronic, house, and pop.  I started listening to his music in college, loving his reggaeton beats.  When I lived in Nicaragua during the Peace Corps, his music surrounded me, and my fellow volunteers and I turned into forever fans.  We continue to listen to his songs back in the USA, converting many others to Pitbull-worship as well.  His music is so happy and optimistic, you can tell he loves his life, despite his rough upbringing.

Now, there are many "haters" out there who would disrespect Pitbull and belittle his music and lifestyle.  Recently, Pitbull - who promotes a certain brand of energy strips sold in Walmart stores - agreed to visit whichever Walmart got the most "likes" on its Facebook page.  A writer at a Boston newspaper thought it would be funny to "exile" Pitbull to the most remote Walmart in the US, in Kodiak, Alaska.  Of course, since I'm from Alaska and a Pitbull fan, I took offense at this practical joke.  The whole scenario actually ended quite well, with both Pitbull and the Boston writer visiting the Kodiak Walmart, and having a great time.  Who knows what drove the writer's negative feelings toward Pitbull: jealousy, annoyance at his confidence and swagger?? We will never know, but we can rest assured nothing will slow Pitbull down.

I've wanted to write this blog for a while as a counter to the negative opinions I hear about Pitbull (see example at left).  Like most rap and reggaeton music, his songs can be degrading toward women at times.  However, I believe that Pitbull has his priorities in order, works hard, and respects his fans and the Latino population.  His unabashed pride in who he is and where he comes from is admirable and in many ways he is a great role model.  I have found Pitbull's music and his persona to be inspiring, and indeed he has taught me many life lessons.  Read and learn.


1. He remembers his roots; he doesn't change who he is.  Pitbull remains true to himself, being a voice for the Latino-Americans in the US.  Over the years he's been in the public eye, he hasn't significantly altered who he is or tried to hide his background.  He is proud to be Cuban-American, often raps in Spanish, and always remembers he is first and foremost from "the 305," Dade County in Miami.
2. He learns from his mistakes. Pitbull began rapping in high school after his mother kicked him out for dealing drugs. After this setback, he managed to graduate and began to focus on his career, hanging out in clubs and performing wherever he could. He never went back to drug dealing.
3. "Haters gonna hate." This popular saying is commonly spoken by Pitbull, who has his fair share of critics and "haters."  However, he has embraced this criticism and the idea that "haters gonna hate," realizing that it's very hard to change the mind of a negative person.  You have to learn to live with the negative feelings being projected upon you, and the best mechanism for dealing with it is to ignore it and move on.
4. Optimism is the best policy.  In his music and his life, Pitbull has overcome adversity to stay positive and optimistic.  I think this has led him to success, and it's an infectious quality that his fans appreciate.
5. He isn't afraid to dance.  More people should dance with abandon like Pitbull.  Just watch this video if you don't believe me.
6. Work hard, play hard.  Pitbull always talks about how he got himself to where he is today: through hard work and by never giving up.  He sets a good example to younger generations, yet also balances his life with enough fun to make it worthwhile.
7. He's not afraid of making fun of himself.  On Pitbull's Facebook page, he regularly posts internet jokes that are aimed at him: his lack of creativity in his rapping, his obsession with the female rear end, etc., but he turns the jokes around and finds humor in them as well.  He's not too self-absorbed to fail to laugh at himself, and he doesn't take himself too seriously.  I really admire that.
8. Family is important.  Like any good Latino, he always "shouts out" to his family in his songs, and you know that it is one of the most important things in his life.
9. He respects his mom and the ladies.  Pitbull often mentions his mother in his songs.  As a single mom, she struggled to make ends meet by working two jobs.  Pitbull shuttled from one run-down home to another, even spending time with a foster family in Georgia.  Rather than becoming hardened at bitter through this experience, he came out of it stronger and with a deep love and respect for single mothers and how hard women work to keep families together. The lyrics from his recent song with Jennifer Lopez say it best,"We're cheering to everything the women do...single ladies, single mothers, and those that are out there just working hard."

10. He believes in collaboration.  It's a running joke how much Pitbull collaborates and sings with other artists (see below):

 

Yet, his ability to work with dozens of artists across the musical spectrum is quite amazing.  He appeals to a variety of ethnicities and ages through his collaborations with artists like Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, Enrique Iglesias, Shakira, Usher, Christina Aguilera, Akon, Alejandro Sanz, and The Wanted.

So, in conclusion, I hope you'll take a listen to a few of his songs.  One of my favorites is Echa Pa'alla which tells you to throw all of the negativity in your life away.  Rain Over Me with Marc Anthony is also a great song.

And I hope after listening and learning more about him, you'll jump on the Pitbull train with me, because hey, haters are gonna hate.